Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
